Learning Sock Pattern

This is the pattern that I wrote for the Beginning Sock Knitting class that I teach at my LYS. I always learn something from my students. During my last session, one of my students indicated that she was a visual learner, thus this pattern has pictures as a visual aid. As a "learning" project, needle size is not limited to the US4 listed in the pattern, but to the comfort of the individual knitter. Gauge is not important in this project.

This sock was designed to teach the baics of sock knitting. It is not intended to fit anyone. However, depending on the needle size you use, it could fit a toddler.

Learning Sock

Materials:

Smooth, light-colored yarn, worsted weight yarn

1 set double point needles US 3, 4 or 5 (suitable to the comfort of the knitter) Wood or plastic is recommended to learn sock knitting

Abbreviations:

co - cast on

rs - right side of work

rep - repeat

st - stitch

p2tog - purl 2 sts together

pu - pick up

sts - stitches

k2tog - knit 2 sts together

dpn - double point needle

sl - slip stitch as if to purl

rnd - one round of knitting

k - knit

cont - continue

dec - decrease

p - purl

ws - wrong side of work

rem - remaining

ssk - slip, slip, knit (slip one stitch as if you were going to knit it, slip the next stitch as if you were going to knit it, please left hand needle into the front of both stitches you slipped and knit them together.)

Leg:

(to be continued)

The Guppie Hat

The Guppie Hat was inspired by Thelma Egberts’ Fish Hat Dead or Alive from the Knitty website:
http://www.knitty.com/ISSUEwinter08/PATTfishy.php

Having a friend who was soon to give birth, it was suggested to me to re-proportion the hat to infant size for the new addition to our knitting group. Thus, The Guppie Hat was born. The picture on the left shows the difference in size between the original pattern and the down-sized Guppie. In the picture on the right the hat is modeled by the lovely Kyra. Following are my notes on the re-sized Guppie Hat. You may wish to reference the original pattern for further directions if my notes are not clear as written.

Materials:
Approximately 70 grams yarn (I used Cascade 220) I spit-spliced the color changes so I wouldn’t have so many ends to weave in.
Size US 7 dpn
Darning needle
Stitch marker


CO 61 stitches.
Join by knitting the first and last cast on sts together being careful not to twist. Place marker at beginning of the round Knit for approximately 1 inch.

Short Row Shaping for mouth:
Row 1: K 19, W&T
Row 2: P 8, W&T
Row 3: K 9, W&T
Row 4: P10, W&T
Row 5: K 11, W&T
Row 6: P 12, W&T
Row 7: K 14, W&T
Row 8: P 16, W&T
Row 9: K 18, W&T
Row 10: P 20, W&T
Row 11: K 22, W&T
Row 12: P 24, W&T
Row 13: K 46, W&T

Repeat Rows 2-12 for second side of mouth shaping. Next row return to knitting in the round.

Change colors as desired.

Knit for 3.5”
Next round *K8, K2tog* repeat around = 54 sts

Knit for 2”
Next round *K7, K2tog* repeat around = 48 sts

Knit for 1”
Next round *K6, K2tog* repeat around = 42 sts

Knit for 1”
Next round *K5, K2tog* repeat around = 36 sts

Knit for .5”
Next round *K4, K2tog* repeat around = 30 sts

Knit for 1”
Next round *K2tog* repeat around to last 2 sts, K2 = 16 sts

Knit 3 rounds

The tail will be worked in two equal sections, straight knitting, not in the round.

Knit 12
Place the last 8 sts worked on a holder ( I leave them on an extra dpn). You are now working only half the tail sts.

Row 1: *K1, Kf&b* repeat across = 12 sts (turn)
Row 2: Purl across (turn)

Row 3: *K1, Kf&b* repeat across = 18 (turn)

Row 4: Purl across (turn)
Row 5: K1, Kf&b *K3, Kf&b* repeat between *s 4x = 23 sts (turn)
Rows 6 –11: Knit stockinette stitch
Row 12: K1 K2tog, knit to last 3 sts, SSK, K1
Row 13: Purl
Repeat Rows 12 & 13 – 4 times more then row 10 once more = 13 sts
Bind off.

Pick up the 8 sts on the holder and complete the second half of the tail as above.

Dorsal Fin:
PU 15 sts along top of fish.
Kf&b of each st
Work in 1x1 ribbing for 6 rows.
Bind off

Pectoral Fins:
PU 10 sts along sides of fish
Work as for the Dorsal fin.

Tie:
Crochet a chain approximately 24-26 inches (or desired length). Pull one end through at the side of fish mouth. Weave the other end through the under side of the lip on the back side of the hat and through the lip on the other side of the mouth, making a continuous strap from one side, around the back to the other side.


Finishing:
Fold each half of the tail together and sew.
Weave in all ends.

Put on the eyes. The original pattern called for circles of white felt, with a dark yarn X in the middle. I prefer to use duplicate stitch for the entire eye. This makes the hat completely baby safe. I have also seen these hats with buttons for the eyes. I refused to put “dead eyes” on a baby hat, so I put live eyes on it.

I hope you enjoy my adaptation of Thelma’s wonderful design.

Tam of Many Colors II

Tam of Many Colors II
by Ruth Cook


Abbreviations:
k – knit
WS – wrong side
sl – slip
p – purl
RS – right side
ssk – slip slip knit
tog – together
bo – bind off
co – cast on

C4B: slip 2 sts to cable needle, hold to back of work, knit 2 sts from left needle, knit 2 sts from cable needle
C4F: slip 2 sts to cable needle, hold in front of work, knit 2 sts from left needle, knit 2 sts from cable needle

Materials:
16 in circular needles sizes US 7 and 9
cable needle to match knitting needle
Wosted weight yarn – this project was knit with Noro Kureyon (2 skeins)

Pattern Notes:

Each Tier changes directions; base triangles and all even tiers are worked right to left, all odd numbered tiers are worked left to right.

The first square of each tier is worked slightly differently than the rest of the squares in the tier; i.e., 1) stitches are picked up as in the previous tier, and 2) the decreases begin in row one [squares 2-8 the decreases begin on row 2]

Row 1 begins after picking up the stitches and turning the work.

Slip all stitches purlwise. The first stitch of every row is slipped.
You will need to either place a marker at the beginning of the round OR leave the cast on tail free to determine end of round.

You can change the size of the Tam by changing needle size

With Size 7 needle, CO 65 sts. Being careful not to twist the cast on row, knit the first cast on stitch tog with the last cast on stitch. You now have 64 stitches. (This helps eliminate the jog which sometimes occurs when joining in the round.)

Ribbing:
Knit 2 rounds in k2p2 ribbing
Purl one round
Knit 6 more rounds of k2p2 ribbing (or to desired depth)

Base Triangles:
Row 1: k1, turn Row 2: p1, turn
Row 3: sl 1, k1, turn Row 4: sl 1, p1, turn
Row 5: sl 1, k2, turn Row 6: sl 1, p2, turn
Row 7: sl 1, k3, turn Row 8: sl 1, p3, turn
Row 9: sl 1, k4, turn Row 10: sl 1, p4, turn
Row 11: sl 1, k5, turn Row 12: sl 1, p5, turn
Row 13: sl 1, k6, turn Row 14: sl 1, p6, turn
Row 15: sl 1, k7, turn Row 16: sl 1, p7, turn
Row 17: sl 1 k7, Do not turn to make next triangle.
Repeat Base Triangle 7 more times. On last triangle DO NOT TURN

Slip all stitches to size 9 needle. Do not turn work.


TIER 1: EXCEPT for 1st square, all sts are picked up on the WS

Square 1: PU 8 stitches along the right edge of the triangle to the left of the working yarn.
(alternate wording): PU 8 stitches along the selvedge edge to the left of the one just completed)
Row 1 (WS): sl 1 (yo, p2tog)3x, p2tog, turn
Row 2 (RS): sl 1, (yo, k2tog tbl)3x, k1. Turn
Repeat Rows 1&2 six more times, then Row 1 one more time. Do Not Turn

Square 2: PU 8 sts along selvedge edge of next triangle. Turn
Row 1 (RS): sl 1, k7, turn
Row 2 (WS): sl 1, p6, p2tog, turn
Repeat Rows 1&2 seven more times. Do Not Turn

Square 3: pu 8 sts along selvedge edge of next triangle. Turn
Row 1 (RS): sl 1, (yo, p2tog)3x, p1. Turn
Row 2 (WS): sl 1, (yo, p2tog)3x, p2tog. Turn
Repeat Rows 1&2 seven more times.

Square 4: Repeat Square 2

Square 5:
Row 1 (RS): sl 1, (yo, k2tog tbl)3x, k1
Row 2 (WS): sl 1, (yo, p2tog)3x, p2tog
Repeat Rows 1&2 seven more times.

Square 6: Repeat Square 2

Square 7: Repeat Square 3

Square 8: Repeat Square 2. Do Not Turn


TIER 2: EXCEPT for 1st square, all sts are picked up on the RS
From WS PU 8 sts along selvedge edge of next square. Turn

Square 1:
Row 1 (RS): sl 1, k6, ssk. Turn
Row 2 (WS): sl 1, p7. Turn
Repeat Rows 1&2 six more times, then Row 1 one more time.

Square 2: PU 8 sts along side of next square.
Row 1: sl 1, p7. Turn
Row 2: sl 1, p6, ssk. Turn
At end of square 2 do not turn to pick up stitches.
Repeat Rows 1&2 seven more times.

Squares 3-8: Repeat Square 2 Do Not Turn at end of last square

EXCEPT for 1st square, all sts are picked up on the WS
TIER 3: From RS, PU 8 sts along edge of next square. Turn

Square 1:
Row 1 (WS): sl 1, p6, p2tog. Turn
Row 2 (RS): sl 1, k7. Turn
Repeat Row 1&2 six more times, then repeat Row 1 one more time. Do Not Turn

Square 2: PU 8 sts along edge of next square. Turn
Row 1: sl 1, k7. Turn
Row 2: sl 1, k6, k2tog. Turn
Repeat Rows 1&2 seven more times.

Square 3:
Row 1: sl 1, k7. Turn
Row 2: sl 1, p6, p2tog. Turn
Repeat Rows 1&2 seven more times.

Square 4:
Row 1 (RS): sl 1 (k1,p1)3x, k1. Turn
Row 2 (WS): sl 1, (p1, k1)3x, p2tog. Turn
Repeat Rows 1&2 seven more times.

Square 5: Repeat Square 3

Square 6: Repeat Square 2

Square 7: Repeat Square 3

Square 8: Repeat Square 4


TIER 4: Repeat Tier 2


TIER 5: PU 8 sts. Turn

Square 1:
Row 1 (WS): sl 1, k1, p4, k1, p2tog. Turn
Row 2 (RS): sl 1, p1, k4, p1, k1. Turn
Row 3: Repeat Row 1
Row 4: sl 1, p1, C4B, p1, k1. Turn
Row 5: Repeat Row 1
Row 6: Repeat Row 2
Row 7: Repeat Row 1
Row 8: Repeat Row 2
Row 9: Repeat Row 1
Row 10: Repeat Row 4
Row 11: Repeat Row 1
Row 12: Repeat Row 2
Row 13: Repeat Row 1
Row 14: Repeat Row 2
Row 15: Repeat Row 4
Row 16: Repeat Row 2
Row 17: Repeat Row 1

Square 2: PU 8 sts along selvedge edge of next triangle. Turn
Row 1 (RS): sl 1, k7, turn
Row 2 (WS): sl 1, p6, p2tog, turn
Repeat Rows 1&2 seven more times. Do Not Turn

Square 3:
Row 1 (RS): sl 1, p1, k4, p1, k1
Row 2: sl 1, k1, p4, k1, p2tog
Row 3: sl 1, p1, C4F, p1, k1
Row 4: Repeat Row 2
Row 5: Repeat Row 1
Row 6: Repeat Row 2
Row 7: Repeat Row 1
Row 8: Repeat Row 2
Row 9: Repeat Row 3
Row 10: Repeat Row 2
Row 11: Repeat Row 1
Row 12: Repeat Row 2
Row 13: Repeat Row 1
Row 14: Repeat Row 2
Row 15: Repeat Row 3
Row 16: Repeat Row 2

Square 4: Repeat Square 2

Square 5: Repeat Square 3 using C4B

Square 6: Repeat Square 2

Square 7: Repeat Square 3

Square 8: Repeat Square 2


TIER 6: THIS IS THE FINAL TIER. “After” the first square, you will be connecting the squares together and binding off at the same time. Please read the instructions carefully before you begin.

From WS PU 8 sts along next selvedge edge, turn

Square 1:
Row 1 (RS): sl 1, k6, ssk. Turn
Row 2: sl 1, p7. Turn
Repeat Rows 1&2 seven more times.

STOP HERE AND READ INSTRUCTIONS BEFORE CONTINUING.

Square 2: PU as on previous even tiers
Row 1: sl 1, p6, p2tog
Row 2: sl 1, k6, ssk
Repeat Rows 1&2 seven more times

You have now bound off one square

Repeat Square 2 six more times

BO last 8 sts

Finishing:
Sew edges together.
Gather hole at top
Weave in all ends



Copyright 2008 Ruth Cook

Tam of Many Colors II - design planning

After making what seemed like a thousand entrelac tams and caps I decided to make a change. Now that I had the entrelac technique down, I realized that each tiny little rectangle presented it's own canvas for further creative endeavors. I wanted to put in some design elements, but only on a few select squares. My ultimate plan was to make every other tier simple stockinette stitch and only every other block on the alternate tiers to include a new stitch. Working with an 8 stitch, 16 row block meant that each stitch I chose must fit into those parameters. I had three tiers with stitch designs in them and I opted for lace in the first, garter and moss in the second, and cables in the third design tier. I'm quite pleased with the end result and I hope you enjoy the pattern.

Entrelac Tam Pattern - Basic

Entrelac Tam (Basic)

By Ruth Cook

Abbreviations:
k – knit

WS – wrong side

sl – slip
p – purl

RS – right side

ssk – slip slip knit
tog – together

bo – bind off

co – cast on

Materials:
16 in circular needles sizes US 7 and 9
Wosted weight yarn – this project was knit with Noro Silk Garden (2 skeins)

Notes:

Slip all stitches purlwise.
You will need to either place a marker at the beginning of the round OR leave the cast on tail free to determine end of round.

You can change the size of the cap by changing needle size.

With Size 7 needle, CO 65 sts. Being careful not to twist the cast on row, knit the first cast on stitch tog with the last cast on stitch. You now have 64 stitches. (This helps eliminate the jog which sometimes occurs when joining in the round.)

Ribbing:
Knit 2 rounds in k2p2 ribbing
Purl one round
Knit 6 more rounds of k2p2 ribbing (or to desired depth)

Base Triangles:
Row 1: k1, turn

Row 2: p1, turn
Row 3: sl 1, k1, turn

Row 4: sl 1, p1, turn
Row 5: sl 1, k2, turn

Row 6: sl 1, p2, turn
Row 7: sl 1, k3, turn

Row 8: sl 1, p3, turn
Row 9: sl 1, k4, turn

Row 10: sl 1, p4, turn
Row 11: sl 1, k5, turn

Row 12: sl 1, p5, turn
Row 13: sl 1, k6, turn

Row 14: sl 1, p6, turn
Row 15: sl 1, k7, turn

Row 16: sl 1, p7,
Row 17: sl 1 k7,
Repeat Base Triangle 7 more times starting with Row 2.

On last triangle, DO NOT TURN.

Slip all stitches to size 9 needle. Do not turn work.

TIER 1: EXCEPT for 1st square, all sts are picked up on the WS

Square 1: PU 8 stitches along the right edge of the triangle to the left of the working yarn, to the left of the one just completed
Row 1 (WS): sl 1, p6, p2tog. Turn
Row 2 (RS): sl 1, k7. Turn
Repeat Rows 1&2 six more times, then Row 1 one more time. Do Not Turn

Square 2: With WS facing, pu 8 sts along edge of next triangle. Turn
Row 1 (RS): sl 1, k7. Turn
Row 2 (WS): sl 1, p6, p2tog. Turn
Repeat Square 2 six more times.

TIER 2: Except for Square 1 all sts are picked up on the RS row
Square 1: With WS facing pu 8 sts along edge of next Square. Turn
Row 1 (RS): sl 1, k6, ssk. Turn
Row 2 (WS): sl 1, p7. Turn
Repeat Rows 1&2 seven more times.

Square 2: With RS facing pu 8 sts along edge of next Square. Turn
Row 1 (WS): sl 1, p7. Turn
Row 2 (RS): sl 1, k6, ssk
Repeat Rows 1&2 seven more times. Do Not Turn

Squares 3-8: Repeat Square 2


TIER 3: Repeat Tier 1

TIER 4: Repeat Tier 2

TIER 5: Repeat Tier 1

TIER 6: THIS IS THE FINAL TIER. “After” the first square, you will be connecting the squares together and binding off at the same time. Please read the instructions carefully before you begin.

Square 1: With WS facing pu 8 sts along edge of next Square. Turn
Row 1 (RS): sl 1, k6, ssk. Turn
Row 2 (WS): sl 1, p7. Turn
Repeat Rows 1&2 seven more times.

STOP HERE AND READ INSTRUCTIONS BEFORE CONTINUING.

Square 2: PU as previously
Row 1: sl 1, p6, p2tog
Row 2: sl 1, k6, ssk
Repeat Rows 1&2 seven more times

You have now bound off one square
Repeat Square 2 six more times
BO last 8 sts

Finishing:
Sew edges together.
Gather hole at top
Weave in all ends

Entrelac Cap Pattern

Entrelac Cap
By Ruth Cook

Abbreviations:
k – knit

WS – wrong side

sl – slip
p – purl

RS – right side

ssk – slip slip knit
tog – together

bo – bind off

co – cast on

Materials:
16 in circular needles sizes US 7 and 9
Wosted weight yarn – this project was knit with Noro Kureyon (2 skeins)

Notes:

Slip all stitches purlwise.
You will need to either place a marker at the beginning of the round OR leave the cast on tail free to determine end of round.

You can change the size of the cap by changing needle size.

With Size 7 needle, CO 65 sts. Being careful not to twist the cast on row, knit the first cast on stitch tog with the last cast on stitch. You now have 64 stitches. (This helps eliminate the jog which sometimes occurs when joining in the round.)

Ribbing:
Knit 2 rounds in k2p2 ribbing
Purl one round
Knit 6 more rounds of k2p2 ribbing (or to desired depth)

Base Triangles:
Row 1: k1, turn

Row 2: p1, turn
Row 3: sl 1, k1, turn

Row 4: sl 1, p1, turn
Row 5: sl 1, k2, turn

Row 6: sl 1, p2, turn
Row 7: sl 1, k3, turn

Row 8: sl 1, p3, turn
Row 9: sl 1, k4, turn

Row 10: sl 1, p4, turn
Row 11: sl 1, k5, turn

Row 12: sl 1, p5, turn
Row 13: sl 1, k6, turn

Row 14: sl 1, p6, turn
Row 15: sl 1, k7, turn

Row 16: sl 1, p7,
Row 17: sl 1 k7, Do Not Turn
Repeat Base Triangle 7 more times. On last triangle DO NOT TURN

Slip all stitches to size 9 needle. Do not turn work.

TIER 1: EXCEPT for 1st square, all sts are picked up on the WS

Square 1: PU 8 stitches along the right edge of the triangle to the left of the working yarn, (to the left of the one just completed) Turn work
Row 1 (WS): sl 1, p6, p2tog. Turn
Row 2 (RS): sl 1, k7. Turn
Repeat Rows 1&2 six more times, then Row 1 one more time. Do Not Turn

Square 2: With WS facing, pu 8 sts along edge of next triangle. Turn
Row 1 (RS): sl 1, k7. Turn
Row 2 (WS): sl 1, p6, p2tog. Turn
Repeat Square 2 six more times.

TIER 2: Except for Square 1 all sts are picked up on the RS row
Square 1: With WS facing pu 8 sts along edge of next Square. Turn
Row 1 (RS): sl 1, k6, ssk. Turn
Row 2 (WS): sl 1, p7. Turn
Repeat Rows 1&2 seven more times.

Square 2: With RS facing pu 8 sts along edge of next Square. Turn
Row 1 (WS): sl 1, p7. Turn
Row 2 (RS): sl 1, k6, ssk
Repeat Rows 1&2 seven more times. Do Not Turn

Squares 3-8: Repeat Square 2


TIER 3: Repeat Tier 1 EXCEPT instead of picking up 8 sts along the edges, pick up 7 sts

TIER 4: Repeat Tier 2 EXCEPT instead of picking up 7 sts, pick up 6 sts

TIER 5: Repeat Tier 1 EXCEPT instead of picking up 6 sts, pick up 5 sts

TIER 6: THIS IS THE FINAL TIER. “After” the first square, you will be connecting the squares together and binding off at the same time. Please read the instructions carefully before you begin.

Square 1: With WS facing pu 5 sts along edge of next Square. Turn
Row 1 (RS): sl 1, k3, ssk. Turn
Row 2 (WS): sl 1, p4. Turn
Repeat Rows 1&2 seven more times.

STOP HERE AND READ INSTRUCTIONS BEFORE CONTINUING.

Square 2: PU as previously
Row 1: sl 1, p3, p2tog
Row 2: sl 1, k3, ssk
Repeat Rows 1&2 seven more times

You have now bound off one square

Repeat Square 2 six more times

BO last 8 sts

Finishing:
Sew edges together.
Gather hole at top
Weave in all ends

Entrelac hats history

In October 2008 I learned how to do entrelac. The class was given very sketchy directions on knitting a tam or a cap. After the class was over, a couple of us refined the directions to workable instructions. People started seeing the reslts and they wanted caps and tams but didn't want to do the work, so I was asked to make them. When I started putting my tams on Ravelry, people started asking for the pattern. There wasn't one, so I had to write it. I looked high and low on the internet and in books to see if anyone had a pattern with the elements I had written into the pattern. I found elements from several different designs, but nothing compiled exactly as I had done. Thus I am sharing the patterns for what I call my Tam of Many Colors I (this is the basic version), my Tam of Many Colors II (which has design elements in various sections) and the Entrelac Basic Cap. I am not a professional pattern writer, so if you find any errors, please let me know.

Ruth